Goto Jail in Salmon
I was down to my last few days in the USA. I had stretched my time out as long as I could to experience a bit of Idaho in the spring. Now, we were headed for a few days in the Montana national forest before making the crossing into Canada. But first, we had a day of driving starting in some not so good weather. Join me on the road.
Leaving on a grey day
The day of travel started cold and grey. We were just low enough to be above freezing, but the wind cut right through you. I quickly got the rest of my stuff from outside and finished packing inside the RV. Our plan was to head north on Idaho 28, with a stop in Salmon for gas and possibly some sight seeing if anything was worth seeing in this weather. The highway climbs over 7000 feet to Gilmore Summit, with the weather getting colder and wetter as we went up.
Salmon public parking
We were getting close to the summit when the rain changed to snow, with everything turning white around us. There was a brief stop at the summit for Carolyn to step out and play in the snow for a bit. You can always tell if someone grew up in in less wintery areas by their fascination with snow. Yes there are a few weird people that like snow regardless, they tend to be out on the ski hills all winter too. I stayed in the rig, happy to be warm and with a road just warm enough to keep the snow from turning things to ice on our drive.
The entry to the nook between two buildings ‘park’
We descended down into spring again, eventually arriving in Salmon, which you arrive at the end of Highway 28, joining up with Highway 93 north. The weather was somewhat improved, having passed through the snow and rain and being back to a mostly grey day. The town looked interesting enough for a bit of an explore, especially since they had a nice public parking lot for the tourists. The town is a major population center for the area, so it its a mix of touristy and functional infrastructure. The bit of main street we explored did have some nice stores and a outdoor museum nook between two buildings that was a bit different. I was impressed with the Mountain Harvest Community Market, it had a lot of local selection packed into a little store, including some of the best cereal I’ve ever had.
Salmon building ventilation art
We continued north, wanting to get reasonably close to Missoula by the end of the day, to allow for a stop over there the following day, then one more camping spot before crossing into Canada. Highway 93 climbs up to Lost Trail Pass at the Idaho – Montana border. We again crossed 7000 feet climbing up the switchbacks to the pass and, you guessed it, encountered more snow. This time it was left over snow from the winter, with the ski hill up there looking like it had just closed. We stopped at the rest area beside the ski hill. It was fun watching Sadie deal with deep snow, she decided that sinking in beyond her belly wasn’t her thing, a sensible reaction in my books. I just confirmed what I’d been told that mountain passes in the States can be way higher than Canada. I doubt any snow remained in our passes at this point; with them being lower. You’ll note I have no photos of the snow for you. Well, for one, I’ve been there, done that. Two, it was dull and grey still – snow doesn’t photograph well and if I’m going to bother with something I don’t particularly want to be reminded of, it had better be a really good picture at least.
Pond in Bitterroot Park
We eventually descended into the Bitterroot River Valley. The weather finally started to clear a bit as we went further north. I was just happy to be back in spring proper again. We stopped for the night at Stevensville, doing a bit of stealth camping at Bitterroot River Park. I don’t think it was illegal to park here overnight, at least there were no signs. It’s a grey area, I don’t think you would get kicked out unless you were staying for days obviously camping. Towns are more casual in general – there are not signs everywhere saying what you can’t do. Now, if this was a tourist hotspot, then you wouldn’t be able to get away with anything. Like most things in the countryside, the crowds coming in have a few abusers that ruin a good thing for the rest of us.
I’m just ‘parking’
We did the typical stealth camping thing: show up late in the day, didn’t put anything out, and just try to look like we were ‘parking’. I took a walk in the park which was quite nice although the path really could use a little gravel fill to get rid of some mud bits. I also walked over to the Super 1 Foods for a little resupply. That would save me having to hit a store before being back in Canada again.
Highway 93 rest stop
The plan the following day was for me to drive on ahead and find a camping spot close to the Canadian border. Carolyn was going into Missoula for resupply. I had not been in Missoula before. I was happy I was just driving through – it really is a small city with busy traffic. Coming in from the south on Highway 93, there isn’t really a bypass either, I was annoyed to be stuck in traffic looking at big box stores. But that faded in the rearview mirror soon enough and I was back in the open country of Montana.
My only picture of Flathead Lake, south side. I never seem to stop to get a picture while driving around this lake.
My drive took me to Flathead Lake. Fun fact: it is almost the same amount of time to go around the east or west side according to the googles. I’ve done both, it’s about an hour travel; Flathead Lake is big. Highway 93 (west side) is the freeway route, faster better road but longer. Montana road 35 is the slower but more direct route. I’d say it is more scenic too, but if you get stuck behind a slow moving vehicle, you may be there a while. North of the lake, you need to get around Kalispell, a small sized sprawling city that does have a way to bypass it. Definitely don’t go through it and through Whitefish . I made that mistake last year as I wanted to fill up with gas. I’d say it cost me a good half hour travel time, especially going through Whitefish which will do everything in it’s power to slow you down hoping you’ll stop and spend some tourist dollars. You are better off filling up south of Kalispell, I find Polson south of Flathead Lake to be much more convenient for gas and groceries, although you are a bit far from the border for that ‘last cheap gas’ fill up heading into Canada.
Dog Creek from the new bridge
But this time around, I had enough gas to get closer to the border. Gas does tend to go up in price as you get closer to the Canadian border. It is definitely worth checking Gasbuddy to save a few bucks on your last cheap gas. I decided this time around that the slightly more expensive gas at Eureka (last town to fill up heading north) was not worth topping up anywhere around Kalispell, so on I went to find camping not to far from the border. My first trip off the highway was down a good logging road to a potential spot by a creek. The road was all good, with a brand new bridge crossing Dog Creek. I only had the last bit of travel as rough road to the creek spot.
Red-winged Blackbird
Wouldn’t you know it, there is a perma-camper there. I’m a bit surprised, as it is pretty early in the season for someone to come claim a spot, and judging by the camp condition, I’d say this trailer is not left over from the winter. I looked down the road, seeing potential further up, but also big water puddles. A bit of scouting around revealed the main logging road continuing away from the creek, with some tree obstructions being possible issues. After a careful inspection of the water, I risked the big puddles. It was fairly deep and you never know for sure if you have firm rock or mud underneath. But this turned out to be ok. Up the creek I went, finding a nice spot past a little tree squeeze that put me just out of sight of the perma camper.
Spot from above
I scouted around, seeing a road coming down to the camp that turns out to be off the main logging road. Walking back that way, I see that with a little tree clearing, it should have enough clearance for Carolyn’s rig to come that way, so I let her know of an alternate route to the camp. Well, it turns out I underestimated the size of her rig, especially for the last bit of road down to the camp. Let’s just say there was a bunch of cursing and tight squeeze guidance down the alternate road. Hindsight, the puddles would have been the better way to go and we definitely went out that way much easier.
Dog Lake
But the camp I found was worth some trouble getting in. We were camped in a little meadow with a view of the creek and some marshland downstream. The weather was warm and sunny – no danger of late spring snow for my last boondocking spot in the USA for this trip south. There were two lakes nearby to hike to. I decided to keep the motorcycle on the rig, we were only going to be here a couple of days and I could use the exercise.
Upper Stillwater Lake great spot, but for the railway below you!
The area is pretty nice, with some good boondocking. Dog Lake is tough – I would be a tight squeeze at the spot I found there. Upper Stillwater Lake had a great spot overlooking the lake, you could tuck in away from the forestry road if you wanted a bit more privacy too. But the spot had one big downside: it was right above a fairly major railway line. While we could hear the trains from where we were, here you’d be shaken in your rig by the passing trains. I didn’t continue down the road further – with the train being right there any spot further along would have the same problem.
Railway along Stillwater
There is a free forestry primitive campground on the north end of the lake that I may checkout if I’m back in the area. But it’s still pretty close to the train, so it might make more of a first stop in the USA spot on the way down next year, rather than a week long relaxing spot. If I didn’t have the six month restriction being in the States, I would have much more time to explore these areas in good weather. It is what it is. But it was time to return to Canada. Join us next time to see if either of us had any issues, and where we would end up.
